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AIMS
A - Organized by people with the interest of raising and improving the quality of Nishiki Koi, and its culture
B - through Nishiki Koi, promote better international and community relations and for public welfare and the better understanding of brotherhood among members through a common interest.
C - To improve the technology of raising and keeping koi
D - To promote Nishiki Koi
BUSINESS
A - To encourage the raising and better development of koi through public and private exhibition
B - We will have a monthly study discussion and make field trips to various member's ponds
C - To carry our necessary business functions of the Club
MEMBERSHIP
A - a qualified member must be interested in pond culture
B - Persons wishing to become a member must be first introduced by another member in good standing and have approval of the Officers - Dues are payable immediately
C - Membership will be terminated by the Officers if a member is found guilty of negligence of his duty, is against the purposes of the southern Arizona Koi Association, and/or who disgraces or insults the Club
Page 3 President Corner
page 3 "Nymphaea" Jewel of the Water Garden
page 4 Guide to Koi Diseases
page 5 Koi Pond Building and use of a liner
Page 9 10% Discount
page 10 Fish of the Month
page 10 Kawarigoi Kornor
Page 10 Dues for 99/00
page 10 WWW.Koi. Show
Well it is time for another letter. An update on my pond as it is slowly getting there. The drains are in, so are the jets. I will keep working on it after my 2 week vacation. I am going to visit my parents in Kentucky. This will be the first time in 19 years. I will miss the next meeting. But we have Gretchen Richards, Sales Representative and Account Manager for Purina Mill Inc. Gretchen is an equine specialist but also handles the specialty foods line of Purina known as Mazuri foods. Remember to ask her about the word Mazuri. Gretchen will speak to us about the koi foods that are available from Purina.
Also attending our meeting will be Christian Spangler, owner of Tucson Feed and Pet Supply. He will be handling the Mazuri foods and will have some special offers to make.
Don't forget if you want to have some involvement in the 20th Anniversary Koi Show come to the meeting at 2:00 o'clock for the first planning meeting. We need all your help. also don't forget to attend the Tucson Koi Society and southern Arizona Koi Association Pond Tour April 25th. See you in May.
Bob Panter
I always loved water lilies. Until a few years ago, I knew nearly nothing about the except that they had a way of stopping me in my tracks every time I came across one. When I decided to PL in a pond, there wasn't any doubt as to what my firs plant would be. So after the pond was in, off I went to a local nursery, one of the few that carried aquatic plants. The nursery was owned by a Mennonite family who were very personable and eager to help. I was delighted by their selection of water lilies! They had red, pink, yellow, and "I think that one in the corner is a white, " said the owner with pride as I was perusing my options. I just couldn't decide on the pink or the yellow, they were both full of blooms and looked totally irresistible. So, I did what any rational woman would have done, I took them both.
It didn't take long before I was completely in love with these plants. Day after day, bloom after gorgeous bloom, my lilies kept me coming back for more. I couldn't get enough. They were the first things I wanted to see in the morning (as I sipped my coffee) and the last thing I wanted to see before bed.
Then one day a friend came by, and I couldn't wait to show her my lilies. She had a water garden too and knew quite a bit about aquatic plants. "Is that a Charlene Strawn or a Texas Dawn you have there? ", she asked. This left me totally stumped feeling stupid, and thinking to myself, "What the heck is she talking about." I think I responded with a less than brilliant, ... I dunno. "
That was the day that led me on my search to know more about the Hardy Nymphaea And since that day, I've realized that the more I know, the more there is to know about this "jewel" of the water garden.
I started soaking up every bit of information I Could get my hands on. Books, videos, and catalogs are more plentiful than I Could have imagined. I learned It lot just by Studying the wholesale catalogs. The ones with full-color photos and accompanying descriptions were very helpful during that first year-- and most of those catalogs were free for the asking' I couldn't believe that there were scores of hardy water lilies to choose from with names like Virginalis, Chromatella, Rembrandt, Escarboucle, and Fabiola.
Learning about the hardy water lily was more interesting, or at least more practical, to me than the tropical varieties. I think the tropicals are stunning. but living in an area where zone 5 meets zone 6 presents its share of problems. When I learned about the scores of "hardies" available, I was convinced that my time would be better spent researching them and leaving the tropicals to my friends in the south. I decided that I could live without the electric blues. shocking pinks. and other neon colors that only the tropicals can provide, at least until my greenhouse is built!
I often go back in my mind to the day I bought I my first water lilies. Although I was impressed, at the time, by the selection of water lilies offered by the nursery I patronized, I was later disappointed that they did not know more about them. They were pegged simply pink, red, yellow, and white. I am still not completely sure about the true identity of the pink one I bought there, although I have it narrowed down to two possibilities.
Garden centers and retail nurseries who deal in aquatic plants need to identify their plants properly. Some retailers choose to operate on a KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) policy when it comes to aquatic plants. This is understandable, as most entry-level hobbyists come in looking for a particular color of water lily, so the retailer will simply peg them with a "Yellow" tag rather than bother with the proper, but lengthy, N. 'Marliacea Chromatella'. But remember this. Entry-level hobbyists soon become educated hobbyists-with a yearning to know what they have (and what they're buying).
There are a lot of things to consider when buying and selling water lilies. Size, amount of sunlight required, blooming traits, etc., all need to be taken into account. You wouldn't want to sell someone a water lily with a spread of up to 18' for a 2' container garden. would you? It would be like trying to stuff an elephant into a thimble!
Retailers need to acquaint themselves with their water lilies, (and all aquatic plants) so they can, in turn, educate their customers. A little know]edge goes a long way in the area of customer service! Provide your customers with good, solid information, and they will trust you, continue buying from you, and will recommend you to fellow water gardeners,
Pronounced nim-fa ahim fa' ah the name was applied in the year 1753 (by Linnaeus) to a genus of aquatic plants within the family called Nymphaeaceae. Nymphaea comprises both hardy and tropical species, varieties, and cultivars. There are approximately 180 recognized as hardy Nymphaea in the world today!
To begin an understanding of the different varieties of hardy Nymphaea one should start at the root, or "rhizome". There are three accepted classifications of rhizomes including Marliac., Odorata, and Tuberosa. There are more of the Marliac varieties than there Odorata or Tuberosa varieties, and there are two distinct types of Marliac rhizome. Hobbyists who intend to grow their water lilies in containers would be more successful growing those of the Marliac type. The spreading Odorata and Tuberosa types quickly outgrow their containers. This can be a nuisance for those not interested in transplanting their water lilies each year!
Offspring of Odorata rootstock are from the native Eastern North American water lily. They are identified by their long, fleshy, brown rhizome. Eyes develop on the rhizome, with each having the ability to begin a new plant.
Central American white water lily hybrid. The rhizome are similar to the Odorata, except their daughter plantlets are loosely attached.
The Marliac hybrids have two kinds of rootstocks. One develops a pineapple-like form crowned by a single growing tip. As the mass grows larger, it will produce eyes which are able to generate new water lilies. The second type of Marlia rootstock is more elongated. Most red hardies are of the second type of Marliac rootstock. These elongated rootstocks produce fewer eyes than the other rhizome types, while the pineapple-like Marliac produce the most. The Marliacs tend to clump rather that trail, (although this is not always the case).
Hardy water lilies come in a variety of colors and shades including red, white, yellow, pink, salmon, and changeable. The changeables are the most interesting, because they open the first day as one color, perhaps yellow-and by the end of the day, their shade may be leaning toward salmon. The second day they may be orange, then rust on the third.
Blooms vary in shape, size, and number of petals among the varieties. There are two basic shapes: cup and stellate (star). The cup shape has variations including double cup, open cup, and double open cup. A good example of a cup shaped flower is N. 'William Falconer'. A good example of a stellate bloom can be found in the N. 'Charlene Strawn'. A good example of a double cup is the recently introduced N. 'Lily Pons'.
The leaf shape, size, texture and color can vary greatly from variety to variety and from plant to plant. So can the coloring and markings of the peduncle and petiole. Water and soil pH, light exposure, plants depth, growing zone and whether the plant has adequate nutrients, all play a role in the color of the pads. Pad colors may also change with seasons.
There is so much to learn about the Hardy Nymphaea.. The best advise I can give anyone who is interested in learning more about the hardy water lily is to read, read, read! There is a wealth of information available, and you will become entranced by what you will learn.
A Koi's health depends upon the environment provided by the human owner. Koi have a high resistance normally and succumb to disease usually only after exposure to stressful conditions that break down the normal immune system. A stressed fish becomes a sick fish. It has been said that:
Fish Disease = Stress Condition + Disease Agent
Stress is the main factor man has the most control over. Many disease causing organisms normally occur in the same environment as the fish. They usually only become a problem when present in significant quantities and/or stress occurs. Therefore, by controlling stress you can help maintain a healthy pond. Prevention is easier than treating your pond for disease.
Some causes of stress are:
* High ammonia level
* Low dissolved oxygen level
* Handling and/or moving fish
* Poor water quality
* Crowding
* Parasites
* Too high/low water temp.
* Other toxic chemicals (chloramines,oak blossoms, weed spray, etc.)
* Sharp edges in and around pond
* Inadequate and improper nutrition
1. Bacterial
* Flexibacter Columnaris (fin & tail rot).
* Aeromonas (hole-in-the-side). * Pseudomonas. Vibrio One of the principal causes of fish mortality is bacterial disease. Except for "columaris" nearly all bacterial infections occur secondarily to some other primary stress. Most are gram-negative organisms. Treatment: acriflavin, nitrofurans, oxytetracycline, kanamycin, chloramphenicol, sulfanomides, salt, etc. as a dip, topical, injection, or in feed.
2. Viral
I know of no effective treatment except to remove nodular growths by scraping.
3. Fungal
A secondary infection at the site of some other fish injury. Also affects damaged or disturbed fish eggs. Treatment: acriflavin, iodine, malachite green, methylene blue, salt, formalin as a bath, topical, or in pond.
4. Parasitic
* Lernaea (anchor worm)
* Argulus (fish lice)
* Monogenetic Flukes
* Ich
* Trichophyra
* Internal parasites
Most fish carry some parasites, but develop a degree of resistance that prevents problems. On the other hand, parasites such as anchor worms and fish lice usually are a problem whenever present. Young fish are more susceptible to illness caused by parasites. Stress situations and/or seasonal climatic variations may bring on infection. Some parasitic infections can be mistaken for bacterial diseases or viral infections and some may cause tumors. Treatment: Dylox, Masoten, Demilin, Formalin, Malachite Green, potassium permanganate or salt in the whole pond or in a bath. Treating fish diseases is sometimes a haphazard affair because we do not always exactly know what the fish is suffering from. It is not easy to make a correct diagnosis and then, from that "guess," choose a medication and dosage. Treatments for Koi diseases are still relatively unsophisticated. There are no funds available in the U.S. for the development of ornamental fish medicine.
Note: Dead fish decompose very rapidly and generally are of little diagnostic use even if they have been frozen. It is better to have someone examine a live, diseased fish. Fish cannot be examined over the telephone!
Methods of chemical treatment, (listed from most conservative to most drastic):
* External swabbing
* Dip (five minutes in separate bath, aquarium)
* Bath (30 to 60 minutes)
* Sick tank or whole pond (low concentration for 12 or more hours)
* Feed
* Injection
Whole pond treatment advantages include apparent ease of administration and a desire to destroy all the harmful pathogens. The disadvantages are that biological filtration may be severely affected and drugs used in the treatment tend to be absorbed by organic debris in the pond. In addition, therapeutic drug levels may not be reached as pond drug dosages are usually lower.
External swabbing with antibiotics and/or disinfectants can be surprisingly effective. The disadvantage is that the fish is exposed to handling and possibly anesthetics.
Medication should be attempted after water quality and stress conditions have been improved. Partial water changes are very effective in improving water quality and relieving stress.
Beware of the problem of disease organisms that may be resistant to a particular drug. Maintain a current listing of drugs that are effective. Acriflavin, for example, is frequently used for shipping and handling of fish, and has been abused to the point that strains resistant to this
drug are not uncommon.
Suggestions for a Koi first aid kit:
* pH test kit
* Ammonia test kit
* Chlorine/chloramine test kit
* De-chlor
* Dylox or Demilin
* Malachite green and/or methylene blue (note: methylene blue can kill your bio-filter)
* Rock salt ("Synergistic" some medicines are more effective when combined with salt treatment)
* Nitrofuran powder or ointment
* Panalog ointment
* Formalin.
* "Handbook on Drugs and Chemicals Used in the Treatment of Fish Diseases" by Nelson Herwig.*
* "Koi Health and Disease" by Erik Johnson D.V.M. or "The Manual of Fish Health" from Tetra Press. Herwig Nelson: Handbook of Drugs and Chemicals Used in the Treatment of Fish Diseases.
The only difference between a liner pond and any other, is what's used to contain the water. All other technical aspects are the same; bottom drain(s) gravity feeding to a settling chamber, feeding to a mechanical filter then to a biological processing station before being returned to the pond by the recirculating pump. But before attempting to build, read and heed the advice in Koi Keeping 101, found in the book, From the Pages of MAKC News. Here's an excerpt:
"It seems that the more people that see Koi, the more people there are that want to own one (or 10 or 50). But to make the transition from dream to dream pond, there's an awful lot of information that must be read/seen/heard and assimilated before one has even a chance of success. So to preclude those would-be Koi keepers from putting the carp before the horse, here's my view of a logical approach to what can be and in most cases is, a most rewarding and fascinating hobby.
"Not only join a club as most of those reading this have done, but actively participate in all of its activities that you can make time for. Listen to any and all who will respond to your questions. You'll get plenty of conflicting stories but after awhile you'll be able to sift through the chaff and can start to formulate a well founded base from which to do your planning.
"Go see as many ponds as you possibly can, all the while asking questions and storing the data for your future use. By now you have some ideas on what your budget, real estate and imagination can handle so retrace your steps (or continue your search) until you find THE pond, up and running, tried and true, that comes closest to what you think you want. Talk extensively to that pond keeper and find out from the beginning how he made it work and what were the mistakes and pitfalls along the way (that you can now avoid)."
You don't want to make the mistake that so many do by digging a hole, throwing in a liner and some fish, and calling it a Koi pond. This approach almost guarantees disaster. Just follow the advice in 101 and what follows herein and you've got a real good chance of success.
One of the major pluses for using a liner is its cost - $.50 to $1.00 a square foot. That's for 45 mil thick EPDM, fish friendly, cut to size liner. Years ago we had to use the roofing EPDM that had to be thoroughly cleaned or was deadly to fish. Since EPDM is probably the most economical and practical liner, let's not even talk about any other. However, no matter what you use to contain the water, these major decisions should be foremost in your planning:
1. Siting - If at all possible, put your pond where you can see it all year 'round. Those of us who did are grateful daily. Maybe you want to tear out that old concrete patio or re-do that deck to incorporate your new pond. I did and boy am I glad!
2. Size - After traveling all over and seeing many a pond, it seems the 4000 to 6000 gallon one fits the average hobbyist the best (of course this does not speak for those folks attempting to grow jumbo Koi nor those seeking the title "Grand Champion" at shows). Also, its just as easy to manage 6000 gallons as it is 2000 and a whole lot better for fish.
3. Depth - At least three feet with a slightly sloping bottom will allow for better water flow and elimination of wastes (to the bottom drain). People looking for jumbo growth might even consider six feet or so.
4. Bottom drains - A 4000-6000 gallon pond might get along fine with just one bottom drain if constructed so sediment was kept moving toward it. If two or more are used, they should never be connected by a "Y" but taken all the way to separate (or one very large) settling chambers in at least 4" schedule 40 or 80 PVC pipe. Drains should be of the type designed by Peter Waddington of Infiltration in the UK, and pictured on page 32 of the Tetra Encyclopedia of Koi. They cost about $120-130. There's a cheaper one on the market but the three legs it stands on create a traffic jam from leaves and other debris. Drains should gravity feed to the filter if you pump to a filter you puree all the poop and stuff making filtration - spelled EXTRACTION - more difficult.
Tip: A word on gravity feeding. The basic rule is, water will always seek its own level. If you place two containers (or even more) side by side (such as a pond and a settling chamber) and run a pipe from one to the other(s) anywhere below the water line, and fill them with water, the water level will even-out from one to the other. If we pump from one, the water from the other(s) will flow to compensate and that's how a gravity flow recirculating systems works. As long as the pump is running, the filter system water level will always be slightly below pond level as the pond water is always trying to catch up. How much difference depends on the flow rate of the pump. The higher the output of the pump, the lower the water drops in the filter system containers. Example: 2400 gallons per hour (GPH) will drop the level about 1 inch. Note: A new (slick) 4" PVC pipe can carry about 3500 GPH by gravity. The flow rate will reduce as the pipe starts growing things inside.
5. Settling chambers - The most efficient is called a vortex
(whirlpool). Water enters on a tangent about two thirds of the way down the side of the container, causing a swirling motion forcing the larger pieces of crud to move out to the sides where gravity draws them down to the bottom where the purge line enters the cone shape of the purpose built container. When we see a build-up of debris, we just pull the knife valve in the 3" (minimum) purge line and get rid of it to waste. For most Koi ponds, this container should be a minimum of 40" in diameter and 40" deep. The point is to slow the water down enough for the heavy stuff to drop out and any smaller container is ineffective when pond water flow rate is at the typical 2000-2400 gallons per hour (2400 GPH is maximum for a 40" vortex). The rule of thumb is, the larger the vortex the greater water flow we can have and still accomplish the same result.
6. Mechanical filtration - This is where we actually strain or extract or trap or take something out of the water. We actually want particles to cling to whatever we place in the path of the water. The choices of material are numerous but my choice is cylindrical (usually 4" in diameter) brushes with a stainless steel core and bristles of nylon or other similar synthetic material. Its best to buy the thick, good ones as they'll stop more stuff and they never wear out. They come in various lengths to suit your needs and can be used in up-flow, down-flow or horizontal applications. You'll want at least four rows, each one slightly enmeshed or overlapped with the other from side to side. And with brushes, more is better. They can be hung in place with dowels or metal (non rusting) rods. However, they must be cleaned from time to time and because we're not asking them to perform any biological function, a garden hose and chlorinated water is okay if flushed away from the system (chlorinated water will kill the good guy bacteria in the biological processing station).
7. Biological processing - Here's where the chemicals you can't see such and ammonia and nitrite, are handled by good-guy bacteria provided by Mother Nature. Remember, every surface under water anywhere in the pond - this means streams, waterfalls, the sides of the pond, anything under water - is a place for good-guy bacteria to reside and work for you. But because we usually have too many fish, this surface area is insufficient to do the job. So - what most of us do is provide a container of some kind of material outside the pond, on which the bacteria can colonize. What kind of material? Ask ten different people and get ten different answers. The rule of thumb is, get the most surface area for the smallest volume. I like Japanese or domestic matting or the ribbon-like media for its light weight and ease in cleaning (even though we give this container the cleanest possible water, over time crud will accumulate and we'll have to clean it). I don't like lava rock or any kind of gravel/aggregate because it tends to clog and channel and is tough to take out of a container and try to clean. (How do we know if our processing station is doing its job? Test the water. Inexpensive test kits for ammonia and nitrite are readily available and should be used routinely and should always show zero contamination). Its from this processing station that we'll pump back to the pond and create the gravity flow recirculating function.
Tip: Ready made filter systems are available but size is critical. Be doubtful of anyone who shows you a 2' x 2' x 3' box and tells you it will take care of 6000 (or whatever) gallons. This might work if you only want a couple of fish. Ask instead, how many mature, 24" fish, being feed normally, the filter system can support. There is no formula and little science to help us decide on size and shape so talking to experienced Koi Keepers is the best approach.
Tip: You can have as many fish as your filter can support but, a crowd looks like a crowd. Fifteen, 24" fish in a 25' x 13' x 3' pond looks great. Fifty, 12" fish looks like rush hour on Times Square. Now that you know what you're getting into and have a plan, lets get on with it. In addition to selecting a site for the pond, you need to decide where the filter system will go. It can go most anywhere -out in the woods, around the corner of the house, maybe in the garage - but it should either be concealed or suitably camouflaged so as not to intrude in the beautiful setting you're making. The use of a surveyor's transit will come in handy to make sure the water level in the filter system will be the same as the pond. These can be rented at equipment rental places.
The next step is to lay out the pond perimeter using powdered lime or a rope or hose to see what this thing is really going to look like in the spot you've chosen. Its probably good to leave this for a couple of days to see if that's what you really had envisioned. Then, start digging.
If you live in an area where ice might be a problem, slope the sides about 20 degrees so the ice can slide up as it expands instead of straight out (and through your liner). Dig out the trench for the 4" bottom drain pipe and run it all the way to where the rest of the filter system will go. If a straight shot is not possible, use 45 degree elbows to raise or turn the pipe rather than 90's. The fewer bends the better. Put the bottom drain and all the pipework in place to check all the measurements before glueing. Its a good idea to cover the whole top of the drain to keep dirt out. If the drain is sitting on firm virgin clay/soil, there's no need to set it in concrete. The weight of the pond water will hold it steady.
Returns from the pump and filtration system to the pond are usually via a waterfall and a couple of through-the-liner bulkhead fittings that allow for the creation of a current by using directional "eyeball" fittings. Don't be afraid of the through-the-liner returns. Just be sure to tamp the backfill around each pipe so they're in a solid setting. It usually takes two people to install them and only go arm's length down the side - one person holds the outside of the fitting outside the pond (male threaded) while the other tightens the nut that sandwiches the liner against the flange (female threaded) for a water-tight installation. A bit of aquarium-safe adhesive wouldn't hurt either.
Tip: Inch and a half PVC, schedule 40, is good for most water transfer functions. However, if the run is longer than about 15 feet, 2" works better by reducing flow resistance. If flexible PVC is used, be sure to use the PVC cement made for it. Also, always use PVC cleaner before glueing (a clear one is available if you don't want to see all the typical blue around joints).
Tip: Fernco couplings make pipe joints simple. This is a rubber coupling with stainless steel clamps and comes in many configuration and is available at home centers and plumbing supply houses. After installation, check for tightness periodically if used near pumps. They have been known to loosen, detach and allow depletion of an entire pond.
Tip: Skimmers are a really "nice-to-have." Either the inexpensive (about $40) aftermarket one or a swimming pool type that installs in the liner just like it does in a liner swimming pool. They keep the surface looking great.
You've already decided whether you're going to have a partially raised pond and what that structure will be made of and look like, or you know what type of stone you're going to use around the place. The rule here is to hide the liner and the plumbing. The water level should always be a little above the exposed liner inside the pond. This means that the liner must not only go under rocks placed around the edge of the pond, it must come up behind them as well. To accomplish this, a shelf an inch or two below the intended water line is in order (remember, you know where the water line is going to be because of the levels shot with the transit). Hiding that back edge or tip of liner can be accomplished by using overlapping rocks, plants, decking, you name it. Here's where your imagination comes to play. Just don't let it show either inside the pond or out. Decide how the excavation at the top perimeter of the pond should be done to arrive at the look you intended. Its a good idea to steer clear of a necklace or swimming pool look except maybe for a partially raised pond.
Now's the time to check the dimensions of the pond again and calculate the size liner you're going to need. Length plus 4' plus (depth x2), and width plus 4' plus (depth x2). That 4' in each direction is to give you 2' overhang all around. Thus a pond 20 x 12 and 3' deep needs a piece of liner 30' x 22 plus any for bog garden, streams or waterfalls. If the stones you're using are more than 18" wide, you will need to add liner accordingly. The rule of thumb is, if water is going to be there, there must be a covering of liner AND a lip at the back to contain it. Don't forget to include a planned stream or waterfall. They need to be lined as well and the water contained on the sides (with the liner hidden of course). One contiguous piece for everything makes it a lot easier but there is an EPDM bonding material that does well when applied properly. There are some good diagrams and examples of perimeter treatment in the Tetra Encyclopedia of Koi. By the way, this book is an excellent reference but is rather dated, particulary in filtration, so check with other folks before accepting the material as gospel. The fundamentals are all there but technology marches on.
Now the hole is perfect and its time to lay a padding for the EPDM. Old carpet works well, as does sand or carpet padding, almost anything that will give a bit of cushion and help the liner resist puncture from underneath. Once that's in place you're ready to lay the liner. And since its pretty heavy, fellow club members or friends are needed for this operation. One method is to lay the whole liner out and roll it up from the sides to the center lengthwise then tie it in a few places to facilitate carrying by you and your friends. Then march single file through the hole, placing the liner properly lengthwise, then roll it out from the center and up the sides. Another way is to get six people to hold it out over the hole then gradually let it drop into place. Once its in the proper position, smooth out the bottom over the hole for the bottom drain, mark the hole with a Magic Marker, then cut the hole in the liner as neatly as possible with a utility knife. Then apply a fish friendly (aquarium safe) adhesive/caulk between the liner and the bottom drain, then on the collar that will sandwich the liner and the bottom drain together. With the collar in place install the screws or whatever fasteners came with the drain trying to apply equal tightening all around. Wait for that to set-up according to the directions for the adhesive, then proceed to lay the liner so as to avoid as many folds and wrinkles as possible (this the major down side to using a liner - some
folds and wrinkles can't be avoided and will harbor crud). This was my saddest day as I couldn't imagine getting that huge sheet of rubber to flatten out and look like anything but of course it mainly did and once covered with algae, and with gorgeous fish swimming around I don't notice it anyway. As the pond slowly fills its possible to work even more wrinkles out as the weight of the water starts to work in your favor. Its not a good idea though, to stretch the wrinkles out by letting water act as air would in a balloon this ends up thinning the liner. Some folks have filled their pond, left it sit for a few days, then pumped it out and started the wrinkle removing process again as they refilled. They say it helped. Also, the use of 6" tape can help flatten and seal major folds and is highly recommended. The anti-vortex domed top for the drain should be about 1 1/2" off the bottom.
Tip: When filling the pond, water should be metered so you will know FOR SURE how much is in there AND in the entire filter system together. You'll need this info if/when you must treat for parasites or other baddies (and no one I ever heard of has gotten away without some) as dosages are based on water volume.
Tip: DO NOT CUT excess liner until you are SURE it isn't needed. This is a lesson learned the hard way by too many of us.
Now to the filtration system. At this stage you should have the system all hooked up and in place or have all the necessary parts on hand. You've kept the water in the pond from running out the drain pipes by closing the knife valve for each. Let's look at the attached filter diagram as only one of many ways and means to arrive at the same end; good water quality. The filter system is the key to that and if we don't have good water quality, we can't keep Koi (very long). Period. The system incorporates bottom drain to settling chamber to mechanical filtration to biological processing to pump to pond. It doesn't matter what the containers look like, or what their shape is as long as they hold water and don't lose their shape when filled. The settling chamber won't work if we feed it too fast. The mechanical filter won't work if all the water isn't forced to travel through the filtration media. Likewise, the biological processing station won't work if the water can go around the media you've selected as the home of the good guy bacteria. Water will seek the least line of resistance and all of your efforts will be for nought if it doesn't go THROUGHthe media. Also, match the media to the type container. Brushes do well in round, or straight sided square or rectangular containers. Ribbon type media goes in either as well. Ribbon material will try to sneak out purge drain pipes if you don't contain it (say in nylon draw-string laundry bags or by having a grate at the bottom of the container). However, these are just a few of the potentials for media so ask and look around. They are ones I've used successfully though.
Now we can start up the pump and test our recirculating, gravity fed system. The pump should obviously be outside the pond and move 2000 to 2400 GPH. It normally doesn't have to create much head or pressure as waterfalls should neither look nor sound like Niagara Falls. The effect should be soothing, not kinetic or frantic but that's a personal thing I guess. Most of the water being pumped will go to the through-the-liner returns to create the current we mentioned earlier. The fish love it and the crud is moved to the bottom drain where it belongs. There are several choices of pumps and any one that uses around 3 amps and is quiet will do just fine. Most have 1 1/2" input and output connections. If you're going to use 2" pipe from (and/or to) the pump, just use a 1 1/2" to 2" coupling. Installing a ball valve on the output side of the pump for complete control, and a flow meter that displays 20 to 80 GPM, are highly recommended
Tip: Amps x voltage = watts x 24 hours divided by 1000 = kilowatt hours (KWH). Example: 3 amps x 120 volts = 360 watts x 24 hours = 8640 watts divided by 1000 = 8.64 KWH x rate charged by the electric company per KWH (mine is 15 cents) = $1.29 per day to operate the pump (or $38.88 per month).
You're up and running now and have used some type of dechlorinator to neutralize the chlorine in the water and are ready to add a few fish who will provide the food (ammonia) for the good guy bacteria to get started. Remember that our biological processing station is only RE-active and never PRO-active so it always has to catch up to any increased bio load (so we never want to add a lot of fish all at once).
Tip: Call your water company and ask if they use chloramine to get rid of bacteria. If they do, you need a neutralizer that attacks that specifically. Just read the label on the product.
Tip: Never use a chlorine or chloramine neutralizer that also has any type of ammonia blocker, or inhibitor or absorber. The biological processing station HAS TO HAVE ammonia. Otherwise, the good-guy bacteria will starve.
Tip: It will take a couple of months for your biological processing station to "kick in" and start giving you zero on your test readings. The Brits and Japanese, and I agree, that we should never shut our filtration systems down (except to clean of course) because it takes a couple of years or so for a system to become mature. If we shut it down every year we have to go through that bloody "new pond syndrome" (spelled green water) every Spring. And, we never get maturity. Going through it once at the very beginning is bad enough.
Tip: An ultra-violet sterilizer is the best way to get rid of suspended algae (which makes our water green). The wattage needed depends upon a lot of things, such as nitrate in the water and hours of sunlight on the pond (algae is a plant after all and needs food and sunlight to thrive). A 40-watt UV with water flowing through it at 900 GPH, works very well for most ponds (4000 to 6000 gallons). If you need more power and water is run through two 40-watters one after the other in sequence, you can increase the flow to 1800 GPH (or 3 to 2700 GPH, etc.) Those are figures I know to work but the hobby has more art to it than science so a little deviation either way probably wouldn't matter. A branch off of one of the returns or even placed in a return line, can supply the water but you'll need to know what the flow rate is. Installing a flow meter in the line will take care of that and the ball valve on the line after the pump will be your control. The alternative is a separate small submersible pump (of the type without oil in it) picking up water from the processing station or the mechanical filter and pumping to the waterfall or even from one container or section to the other, will work.
This effort at writing has been done with the hope that you'll build your last pond first. If its too late for that, then I hope your next will be the last. But in any case, it only needs to be done right once.
One last item; I'd like to quote Peter Waddington who said, "A Koi pond is an aquarium in the ground." I totally agree and accept all the responsibilities implied therein. I urge you to adopt that philosophy as you take your first step in Koi Keeping.
The Asagi is one of the oldest varieties of Nishikigoi and has provided the basis for many subsequent varieties. Its back is covered in a net-like reticulated scale pattern of indigo, navy blue or pale blue. The light blue head should be clear and unblemished. The base of the pectoral fins, tail fin, stomach and gill plates is a deep orange or red color.
SAKA had a few of its members participate in the World Wide Web Koi Show. This is second year of the show where you send them in a picture of your favorite koi and enter it into competition. Contestants come form all over the world ( USA, Great Britain, Sweden, Japan, and Canada) Also the judges are from all over. If you would like to look at the show in more detail and find out who won Best of Class and Grand Champion, you need to go to: http://www.koi.com/show. Also you can meet the judges, see some neat prizes, and find out what the rules were for this year's show. Have fun Koi Surfing.
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