AIMS

A - Organized by people with the interest of raising and improving the quality of Nishiki Koi, and its culture

B - through Nishiki Koi, promote better international and community relations and for public welfare and the better understanding of brotherhood among members through a common interest.

C - To improve the technology of raising and keeping koi

D - To promote Nishiki Koi

BUSINESS

A - To encourage the raising and better development of koi through public and private exhibition

B - We will have monthly study discussion and make field trips to various members' ponds

C - To carry our necessary business functions of the Club

MEMBERSHIP

A - a qualified member must be interested in pond culture

B - Persons wishing to become a member must be first introduced by another member in good standing and have approval of the Officers - Dues are payable immediately

C - Membership will be terminated by the Officers if a member is found guilty of negligence of his duty, is against the purposes of the southern Arizona Koi Association, and/or who disgraces or insults the Club

President Bob Panter

747-7278

Vice President Doug Wahl

883-2582

Secretary Rob McLean

323-2478

Treasurer Delphine Bermudez

326-6366

1999 Show Chairperson

AKCA Representative Debby Tibbetts

682-7697

Editor Tom Ayers

744-6996

Membership Chairperson Mike Siemens

623-3880

Raffle Chairman Faye Hall

297-1253

Back cover The Butte's

page 3 president corner

page 3 The gills

page 4 Up Date on Gill disease

page 5 Articles from KoiUsa

page 6 Some ways it was transferred

page 7 DR's Comments

page 9 Bulletin Board

Page 10 10% Discount

Page 10 Kawarigoi Kornor

page 10 Picnic Pictures

"Club" The dictionary defines as: A group of persons organized for some mutual aim or pursuit. I also think a club is people getting together to share knowledge and ideas of a common interest.

Some people think a club is where you take ideas, speakers, vendors, etc houses them to promote their own organization without putting in the work.

The opinions above are mine and are not necessarily the views or opinions of SAKA or its members. Thank you for listening.

R. Robert Panter

President SAKA

If you have any comments you may direct them to:

President

3552 South Chasin Drive

Tucson, AZ 85730-2356

Water Testing For Your Pond

Reprinted from The Valley of the Sun Koi Club Newsletter

Tests! "We don't need tests!" the cry of the beleaguered pond owner who has problems enough dealing with algae, malfunctioning filters and pumps, pond leaks and sooner or later sick fish. Monitoring water quality in a koi pond is often viewed with the same degree of enthusiasm as preparing a tax return. Who subjects oneself to another bunch of problems? Well, if your tax return is not prepared, your tax problems will not just go away, and if you don't test your pond water, your water quality problems will not just go away.

Unlike paying taxes, testing our ponds is entirely voluntary, so let's consider three good reasons for volunteering. First, knowledge is power. Second, prevention is easier than cure. Third, learning can be fun. The reasons for not testing - to time consuming, too confusing, too expensive and just not necessary - don't stand up in light of the facts, as we shall see. Anotherconsideration is that we generally have koi ponds for two basic reasons - the beauty of the water environment and the pleasure of having koi. Water testing goes to the heart of both these issues - keeping the pond attractive for our enjoyment and keeping the water healthy for the fish. The latter is the most important reason to test. As hardy as koi are, long term exposure to poor water quality will cause stress and disease. Unfortunately, we can not rely on our unaided senses to determine water quality - clear water is not an indication of good water quality from a fish's perspective.

Millions of years of evolution have resulted in fish that are superbly adapted to their environment. An attempt to create and maintain an artificial pond environment for even domesticated fish is complicated by the fact that fish are essentially "bags of water living in water" with only a semipermiable membrane to maintain internal integrity.

Terrestrial animals, as ourselves, can be considered "bags of water living in air" with enhanced barriers that, relative to fish, effectively separate and protect us from our environment. We can tolerate pollution and environmental changes much better than fish can because our bodies do not interact with the environment as intimately as do fish bodies. Fish are truly a part of their environment and are strongly and directly affected by its condition.

Because koi are so adapted to and affected by their environment, it is important that natural, healthy conditions be maintained in a pond to ensure healthy, happy, colorful fish. Fish disease issues invariably involve water quality. Poor quality stresses the fish, which in turn causes their immune system to go down, which in turn makes the fish susceptible to disease pathogens. In order to know if there is good water quality, it only makes sense to test it periodically rather than wait for disease symptoms to appear. "A pond is basically a toilet". Fish waste must not be allowed to accumulate in a pond, which usually means a biological filter must be operating properly. Fish waste and other organic debris are the first step of the nitrogen cycle, a series of events that produces some of the compounds we test for - ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Algae may colonize and detoxify a pond with high levels of nitrogen compounds, but alga's presence changes water quality for two other things we should test for - pH and dissolved oxygen. The last naturally occurring factors we routinely check are temperature and water hardness.

When to Test

Individual, one-time tests are only important if the test results indicate a toxic or dangerous condition, such as high ammonia, where corrective action has to be taken immediately. The greatest benefit of testing, however, is obtained when results are plotted on graph paper over a period of several testings, so that trends or directions can be noted early. By knowing the direction your pond's water quality is taking, you can take corrective action before the problem gets out of hand.

Normally, tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature should be made once every week or two. Tests should be made more frequently during periods of change in the pond, such as spring warming, new filter installation, major pond cleaning or repair. At such times daily testings for certain items may be necessary, for example pH test during cement work and ammonia and nitrite tests for new filters. During stable periods such as mild summers, testing may be cut back to once every three weeks, and during periods of midwinter inactivity, testing can be eliminated.

Test Kits Home kits all work the same way - there is a small container for a measured sample of pond water, a chemical to add to the sample that will cause the water to turn a certain color, a color chart to compare the result to and instructions to tell you if things are OK or not. Some kits use drops and some use tablets - drops are faster but tablets are easier to measure. Test kits come in either "Master Packs" which contain several basic tests or a single test pack. Refills are usually available and most of the chemicals have expiration dates after which they don't work properly. The basic tests are usually ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

The following is a discussion on the specific factors tested in a Koi pond. You do not need this information in order to properly test your pond, as the commercial test kits are simple and easy to understand. Read this only if you care to understand the factors

behind the test results. Don't worry about the technical measurements, because the color charts in the test kits really make things very simple. There's no reason to convert mg/liter to oz/gallon because only the ratio matters and you don't even need that to read the color chart. What is important to realize, however, is the interrelationship between pH and various factors in the pond. Also, results may vary depending on the time of day and how long the water sample was stored before being tested.

Ammonia is introduced by the fish waste and decomposing organic debris, is the most toxic nitrogen compound. It is present in two forms in the pond - free and ionized. Free ammonia is the most toxic and will cause death in very low concentrations. Problems associated with non-lethal elevated levels of ammonia include gill disease, dropsy and finrot. The higher the pH and the temperature, and the lower the salinity or hardness, the greater the ratio of free ammonia to the ionized form. Thus, the higher the pH and or the temperature, the more toxic the ammonia. Test kits measure the total ammonia (free plus ionized). With a properly functioning biological filter, the ammonia level is usually zero in the pond and should be under .1ppm (mg/l). Nitrosomonas bacteria in the filter oxidize ammonia into nitrite, our next compound. If the level of ammonia is elevated, you should immediately add ammonia remover such as Tetra Aquasafe, Kordon AmQuel or make partial water changes. You should also add nitrifying bacteria to your filter and stop feeding your fish until the situation is corrected.

Nitrite is less toxic than ammonia, but still very toxic as it inhibits the ability of the blood to carry oxygen. Nitrite is oxidized into nitrate by Nirtrobacter bacteria living in the filter, but some of the commercially prepared bacteria compounds for ponds are rather skimpy in the amount of Nitrobacter present because it is relatively expensive. Thus your pond may experience a nitrite spike as your filter is being conditioned until the Nitrobacter colony reaches sufficient size to deal with all the nitrite. If the nitrite level is elevated according to your test results, you should make a partial water change and add bacteria high in Nitrobacter, such as Aqua 5

Nitrate is the end product of the nitrifying phase of the nitrogen cycle. It is much less toxic for koi than either ammonia or nitrite. It is however, a nitrogen compound that is the food and the fertilizer for algae. In nature, nitrate is absorbed by water plants and is reduced into free nitrogen by anaerobic bacteria living in the bottom silt. Hydrogen sulfide and methane gas are given off as a by-product of the anaerobic filtration. An oxygenated, clean pond will not have any anaerobic bacteria present, so nitrate will accumulate in the pond. An algaecide is often used to control algae that would be attracted to the nitrate. Partial water changes of 1\10th per week will flush out the accumulating nitrate. If the nitrate level is over 20 mg\l, you should make water changes immediately or add Aqua 5 Dry, which contains bacteria that remove nitrate without producing hydrogen sulfide and methane gas.

pH indicates the ratio of hydrogen ions to hydroxyl ions on a logarithmic scale from 0 (pure acid) to 14 (pure alkaline). Pure water is 7.0, meaning that there is an equal balance of hydrogen ions and hydroxyl ions. Most tap water in the southwest is between 7.4 and 7.6, which is perfect for koi, as they do best in water 7.2 to 8.0. Koi can actually tolerate a wide range of pH, from 6.5 to 9.0. but they cannot tolerate a rapid change - more than .2 per hour. (Note the logarithmic scale means that there are 10 times as many hydroxyl ions at 8.0 as at 7.0). As mentioned above, pH affects the free ammonia\ionized ammonia ratio, with a higher pH resulting in a greater concentration of the more toxic free ammonia. To make things more complicated, algae and other water plants can drastically change a pond's pH from night to day, due to a change in the amount of dissolved carbon dioxide present in the water. We're concerned about rapid pH shifts not only because of the ammonia ratio, but also because the fish are trying to keep their blood pH even during these shifts, thereby causing stress. Carbon dioxide mixes with water to form mild carbonic acid; therefore, more carbon dioxide means a lower pH, and less carbon dioxide means a higher pH. A bloom of algae will take up a lot of carbon dioxide during daylight for photosynthesis and emit a lot of carbon dioxide at night during respiration. Buffers such as bicarbonate ions help maintain the amount of carbon dioxide and therefore the pH remains even in the pond, but if there's too much algae for the available carbon dioxide, it will be obtained from the bicarbonate ions in the water, thus reducing the buffering agent and increasing the risk of rapid pH changes. Finally, even though koi can tolerate extremes of pH there are diseases directly caused by the stress. Acidosis is a reaction of fish to acidic conditions, in which they act highly agitated, with a lot of jumping. A rapid lowering of pH will cause quick death, while a slow lowering below tolerance levels will cause few behavioral changes until the inevitable death. In alkalosis, a reaction to conditions that are too alkaline, the gills and fins are destroyed; otherwise the symptoms are similar to acidosis. Continued high pH can be caused by improperly cured or sealed concrete ponds or mortar work. New concrete ponds should be sealed with penetrating water based or epoxy compounds, which not only provide a water seal, but also bond with the lime to eliminate pH problems. Cement based water seals don't do anything to control pH. For temporarily raising or lowering pH, you should use sodium bicarbonate or sodium monophosphate respectively. If fish are in the pond be sure to alter pH gradually - no more than a 0.2 change per hour. If an algae bloom is causing the pH shifts or extremes, you have to first determine if you filter is working properly, in which case it's safe to kill the algae (while monitoring dissolved oxygen levels). If an improperly operating filter is the cause of the algae bloom, you have to first ensue safe levels of ammonia and nitrite before it is safe to control the algae. Remember, go slow in fixing the problem that probably took a long time to develop. Finally, if algae are present, take an early morning and a late afternoon reading before taking corrective action.

Temperature is often viewed by pond owners as a guide to feeding, more than as a health issue for koi. Temperature should be monitored for both daily and seasonal extremes. Temperature affects dissolved oxygen levels, respiration, metabolic rate, pH balance, free ammonia\ionized ammonia ratio and osmoregulation. Koi can tolerate a broad range of temperatures, from ponds that are iced over; to water up to 90F, better than they can tolerate sudden shifts in temperature. If you have a shallow pond (less than 2 feet) in full sun along with cool summer nights, the pond temperature may be changing by more than four degrees an hour, causing stress to the fish. Greater splashing of the water and shading may control the problem. If your pond is subject to stressful temperature changes, a 0.1% solution of sea salt containing calcium, potassium, sodium and trace elements will reduce the stress as it aids the kois' osmoregulation. As with pH, do not drastically alter a pond's temperature . Fish can tolerate a low to a high temperature change better than a high to low change.

Water Hardness consists of two elements, permanent or general hardness and temporary or carbonate/bicarbonate hardness. Koi do better in hard water because of the relation of salt within their bodies to the dissolved salts in the pond. In soft water, the difference in salt concentrations means the koi have to work harder, through the process of osmoregulation, to prevent the salts within their bodies from diffusing out through their gill membranes. Harder water allows the koi to ease up on osmoregulation and therefore reduce stress. As mentioned above, bicarbonate ions buffer the water, reducing pH shifts, another cause of stress in koi. Koi do well in carbonate hardness of 150-300 mg/liter or 9-18 degrees dll. In most koi ponds the water is too soft due to the fact that there is no natural mud bottom that leaches minerals into the water. Marine salt and sodium bicarbonate increases hardness and will also cause pH to go up. A permanent salt solution of 0.1% is beneficial to koi, and works out to eight pounds per 1,000 gallons. Check your pH if you add salt, and do not use table salt. Salt will not evaporate out and needs to be replaced only if water is drained from the pond.

Dissolved oxygen is usually only a warm weather concern, as it is associated with water temperature and algae. However, the larger the fish, the greater the oxygen demand - low levels will stress and kill your biggest koi. Ponds that have been safe for many years become unsafe as your fish grow larger. The colder the water, the greater its capacity to hold dissolved oxygen. Algae takes up oxygen at night, and an algae bloom can cause suffocation in large fish and inhibit the oxidation process of nitrifying bacteria. Also, dying algae and decaying organic material takes up oxygen. Testing for dissolved oxygen allows you to determine if your pond has the maximum amount of oxygen for the temperature of the water. Splashing the water into small droplets with a fountain or waterfall is best for aeration, although venturi valves on underwater jets and air compressors also do a good job of oxygenation.

Chlorine and Chloramine should be tested for if your water supply is from any source other than your own well. Chlorine will burn off by itself in a day or so, but chloramine must be broken down and removed chemically. Check with your local water agency to determine whether they add chlorine or chloramine. These chemicals damage the gills and liver and even in low concentrations can cause stress that ultimately leads to disease. Also, frequently overlooked is the fact that they are added to the water supply to kill bacteria. The beneficial, nitrifying bacteria in you biological filter can be killed off by chlorine and chloramine in concentrations that do no obvious damage to your fish. Good products on the market to eliminate chlorine and chloramine include Tetra Aquasafe, Kordon AmQuel and Aqua 5 chlora Gone.

Copper should be tested for if water supplied to the pond is via copper pipes or if coins are thrown in the pond. Copper, in its toxic form will leach into soft water more readily than into hard water. It damages skin and gills and can cause sudden death that is very hard to trace. It also kills the nitrifying bacteria in your filter, which results in an ongoing algae problem. Copper is used in several pond treatments and should be monitored if you are using any such treatments. Concentrations above 0.015 mg/liter are dangerous to fish, and even lower levels can kill the beneficial bacteria in a biological filter.

In conclusion, testing gives you the information you need to ensure the best possible conditions for your fish, as well as the information needed to maintain water clarity. It only takes a few minutes a week, and is about the best investment of pond maintenance time you can make.

Selecting a young showa is one of the toughest young koi to choose. Showas go through many changes as they grow. Many times the black is very deep and only comes out as the fish grows. For this reason, if you see gray areas, it might not be poor quality white but deep black that will appear later. Start selecting a young showa, as with other young koi, by looking at the head. The head should have all 3 colors (red, black and white), preferably in equal amounts. Best would be to have a good kohaku head with either a lightening stripe or a v-shape in black on the top of the head. Many showas don't develop this until later, so just try to pick one that has good red and white with some black coming out.

Next look for a good kohaku pattern on the body. It should be balanced and be placed all through the body. Then check to see if black is either present or coming up all over the body. Don't worry if the black is of poor quality at an early age. Black develops later in most good quality showas. It is also okay to have an orange-red at this point because the red gets better as the fish grows.

The next very important thing to look for is the pectoral fins. Ideally, almost all of the pectoral fins, except for the outermost tips, should be black. As the pectoral fins grow out, the black seems to stay the same and the white area on the outside seems to spread out. If the pectoral fins are all black at this time, it is often alright, as this too can grow out to have good showa fins. Fins that are not acceptable are fins with any red, all white fins, or fins with very little black at the base. All other fins should preferably be white, but some black is acceptable. Red is not acceptable in the fins.

Look for a good, strong body, large pectorals, and a disease free fish. One must know how to pick a good kohaku and a good shiro utsuri to choose a good showa. If you take all the black away on a showa you should have a good kohaku and if you take all the red away you should have a good shiro utsuri.

Another thing to look for in this particular fish is the percentage of the 3 colors to the total fish. The classic showas used to be about 40% black, 40% red, and 20% white. The modern showas, that many judges like, have equal amounts of all 3 colors.

As you can see, the showas are one of the most difficult koi to select at a young age because they change so much as they grow. It is this complexity that makes this one of my favorites of the varieties of koi.

Many people have asked me to help choose fish for them that I think will become a show winner. For this reason, I am writing some articles on what I think people should look for in small koi if they plan on showing them someday. I wanted to write about the kohaku first, because I believe that is the most important fish if you are looking for a future grand champion and it is the basis for other varieties. When looking at a large number of kohakus, perhaps hundreds at a time, the first thing I look for is a white tip at the front and back of the fish. It is preferable to have the red on the head of a kohaku to only go down about as far as the nostrils. Also, the head must have red on it. Don't pick a kohaku with an all white head. Red over the eyes of the koi used to be looked down upon, but in modern times it may come down over the eye. However, I think it is better if the red only comes down over one eye, not both eyes at the same time.

The head is generally one of the most important parts in an early koi. Now that you have several koi with acceptable head patterns, I look at the rest of the body. As I said earlier, I also look to see if there is a white patch right before the tail. If at all possible, I would like one there, but if all the rest of the koi has positive characteristics, this is not as important as the head.

For the body, I look for red that is balanced side to side and covers 70% of the body. This is so that as the koi grows up, and the white comes up, there is still adequate red on the body. The red on the body can be in a zig_zag pattern (inazuma), a three or four step pattern, or anything else that looks eye catching. If the red is straight with no signs of breaking, the pattern may be uninteresting as the koi grows. I also look for koi that are broad at the shoulders, have a large skull, and have relatively large pectoral fins. This generally means the koi will grow larger to compete in shows.

When buying young kohakus, don't worry too much about the color. The white should preferably be snow white but may also be pink if it was color fed before shipping. Avoid kohakus with a dirty grayish_white. As for the red, it may be either bright red or orange_red. Many orange_red young kohakus turn a pretty red as they grow. Next make sure there are no red or black marks on any of the fins. A small red patch at the base of the pectorals may be okay. Also, make sure there are no black marks on the body. All red on the body should also be in sizeable patches, not in single scale areas (ie. small red spots).

Last, but not least, take the koi out in a show tub and check for any body defects or any signs of disease. If these exist, do not buy the fish no matter how nice it looks. I hope this information can give you some help in selecting kohakus. Who knows? In 7 years you may have a grandbchampion.

Grand Champion Kohaku, 22nd &24th All Japan Show, presently inservice as a breeder at Sakai Fish Farms in Hiroshima.

It has been said that koi keeping begins and ends with the Kohaku. Red patterns set against a white background create an exquisite contrast.

Points of appreciation include a bright and evenly colored beni (red), the crispness of the kiwa (the edges of the red patterns), and the snow-like white of the background

As with any other koi, the most important point to consider in selecting a Kohaku is the body confirmation. We are often tempted to overlook poor body confirmation when we are enchanted by a koi that has a stunning pattern, but to acquire such a koi invariably turns out to be a mistake as poor body confirmation is usually a result of more serious internal problems that will eventually result in health problems.

The beauty of a Kohaku lies in the purity of it's white body and the depth and intensity of the red patterns. The edges of the red markings should be crisp and clear against an unblemished white background. This crisp edge is referred to as the "kiwa".

Kohaku come in literally thousands of patterns with no two koi the same but some of the more recognized patterns are as follow:

Tancho: A single red crown-like marking in the center of the head.

Ohmoyo: Any single, large, unbroken pattern extending from head to tail.

Nidan: A two step pattern.

Sandan: One of the most popular, a three step pattern. (Yondan= 4 step, Godan= 5 step etc.)

Kuchibeni: Literally "lipstick", indicates red (beni) on the mouth.

Kohaku are quite sensitive to water condition. If the water hardness is too high, small black freckles called "shimi" can form on the skin. Softer water will not only prevent shimi from forming but will also encourage the development of the red (beni).

The beni in very young koi starts out as a pale yellow that develops into a faint orange, then a deep orange, and then finally a beautiful red. Males tend to develop their red as early as their first or second year, however they their color tends to peak and diminish not long thereafter. Though females take longer to develop their red, they are likely to have a truly lustrous red that will last for years, making them more popular among the serious hobbyists.

It has been said that koi keeping begins and ends with the Kohaku, the beautiful red and white koi that have fascinated koi keepers since the very beginning of the hobby. Kohaku are the undisputed main event of most koi shows and undoubtedly the most sought after of the Living Jewels.

Select the best response to each of the following 26 Questions

1) A white-colored Koi with a red pattern is know as a:

1. KOHAKU
2. AKA BEKKO
3. OGON
4. SHOW
5.  
6. Which of the following does not describe a Kohaku pattern type?
7. NIDAN
8. INAZUMA
9. KAGE
10. SAN DAN
11.  
12. A "doitsu" Asagi is better known as a
13. KIKUSUI
14. BUDO SANKE
15. GOSHIKI
16. SHUSUI
17.  
18. Which one of the following types is classed as a kikari muji?
19. KIKUSUI
20. GINSHIRO
21. PLATINUM OGON
22. SANKE
23.  
24. A "red tortoiseshell" patterned Koi is better known as:
25. HI AKA
26. BENI GOI
27. AKA BEKKO
28. HI SHOWA
29.  
30. The two principal types of red, black and white tricolored NISHIKIFOI include the TAISHO SANKE and the:
31. SHOWA
32. KOHAKU
33. GOSHIKI
34. ASAGI SANKE
35.  
36. Which of the following descriptive terms would not apply of a SHOWA?
37. KAGE
38. BOKE
39. KINDAI
40. HANA
41.  
42. A "metallic" Sanke is called:
43. AKA SANKE
44. YAMATONISHIKI
45. KINSUI
46. KUJYAKU
47.  
48. A "metallic" Goshiki is called.
49. SHUSUI
50. YAMATONISHIKI
51. KIKUSUI
52. KUJYAKU
53.  
54. All of the following types belong to the GOROMO class with the exception of:
55. BUDO SANKE
56. AI SHOWA
57. SUMI GOROMO
58. KUJYAKU
59.  
60. Both BEKKO and UTSURI may exist in three color forms dependent on the background (or accent) color. Which of the following is not one of the three background color forms that might be used to describe a BEKKO or an UTSURI?

    A. SHIRO (WHITE0

    B. KI (YELLOW)

    C. SUMI (BLACK)

    D. HI (ORANGE/RED)

     

61. Which one of the following is not a type of SHUSUI?
62. HI
63. HANA
64. KI
65. MATSUBA
66.  
67. Which of the following Koi can never be called TANCHO?

A. KOHAKU

B. SHOWA

C. BEKKO

D. HAREWAKE

1. All but one of the following koi belong to the KARASU family within the KAWARIMONO. Identify the exception:
2. KUMONRYU
3. KANOKO SHOWA
4. HAJIRO
5. HAGESHIRO
6.  
7. Which one of the following Koi types is a member of the original and oldest types of Nishikigoi?
8. SANKE
9. ASAGI
10. OGON
11. GOROMO
12.  
13. If the HI Patches of a KOHAKU or SHOWA are dappled, the Kohaku or Showa is called:
14. SICK
15. KAGE
16. KANOKO
17. BOKE
18.  
19. ASAGI and AKA SANKE crosses produced the GOSHIKI, a Koi theoretically having:
20. FIVE COLORS
21. FOUR COLORS
22. A PURPLE METALLIC COLOR
23. NO BLACK PIGMENT
24. "DOITSU" Koi may be generally described as:
25. METALLIC KOI
26. ALBINO MUTATIONS
27. DIAMOND SCHALLED
28. VIRTUALLY SCALELESS
29.  
30. A SHIRO BEKKO is as analogous to a TAISHO SANKE as a SHIRO UTSURI is a
31. KINAI SHOWA
32. TAKI ASAGI
33. TANCHO SHOWA
34. AL-GOROMO
35.  
36. All of the following Koi are classified as HIKAEI UTSURIMONO with the exception of:
37. KIN SHOWA
38. GIN BEKKO
39. GINSHIRO
40. KIN-KI-UTSURI
41.  
42. A single colored, non-metallic Koi of a ligh brown or saffron color like tea is called a:
43. MAGOI
44. BUNKA SANKE
45. CHAGOI
46. KI GOI
47.  
48. The KAWARIMONO Koi of bluish-grey with brown patterns that is called "AUTUMN LEAVES ON THE WATER" is more properly known as:
49. HANA SHUSUI
50. HI ASAGI
51. OCHIBA SHIGURE
52. KUMONRYU
53.  
54. Which of the following is the name to describe a green Koi?
55. KI SHUSUI
56. MURASAKI
57. MIDORI GOI
58. KIGOI
59.  
60. A metallic AL-GOROMO in the HIKAEI MOYO-MONO is called:
61. KINZAKURA
62. SHOCHIKUBAI
63. GINSUI
64. KIN MATSUBA
65.  
66. KIN GIN RIN appears in different forms depending on how the shiny deposit is located on each scale surface. All but one of the following is a fom of KIN GIN RIN. Find the exception:
67. TAMA-GIN
68. BETA-GIN
69. KADO-GIN
70. TAKA-GIN
71.  
72. Which of the following statements is most correct?
73. THE CHAGOI AND SORAGOI ARE SLOW GROWING, PATTERNED KAWARIMONO.
74. ONLY THE KNOHAKUS, SANKES & SHOWAS WILL GROW TO BECOME JUMBO KOI.
75. OGONS WERE AN EARLY DEVELOPED NISHIKIGOI.
76. KI UTSURI WERE ONE OF THE ORIGINAL KOI TYPES USED TO DEVELOP THE SHOWA.

(See Page 10 for Answers)

YOUR RATING IF YOU HAD:

24 to 26 Correct

Your responses show mastery of KOI knoedge & intuitive expertise in the full appreciation of the world of Nishikigoi

19 thru 23 Correct

You are very knowledgeable about KOI and their types. With a little time and effort you will become an expert.

14 thru 18 Correct

You possess a good overall knowledge of KOI byt still need further study to improve your ability to recognize and fully appreciate Nishikigoi.

Less than 14 Correct

You are definitely lacking in your basic knowledge of KOI types. Seek out KOI books, Koi classificaion viodetape, and the help of Koi experts to improve your appreciation.

SAKA members did very well at the 3^rd Oklahoma Koi Society Koi Show. With Debby Tibbetts taken 3 1^st places and Steve Childers and his Klan take to many awards to mention them all. It was also announce that Steve Childers is now an AKCA Candidate Judge. This means that SAKA will have 3 AKCA judges (Jack Stone, Debbie Tibbetts, & Steve)

 Kiwarimono

 Sanka

 Hikarimoyo

1. A 2. C 3. C 4. C

5. C 6. A 7. D 8. B

9. D 10. D 11. C 12. D

13. C 14. B 15. B 16. C

17. A 18. D 19. A 20. B

21. C 22. C 23. C 24. B

25. D 26. D