Inside cover Membership list

page 3 To show or not to show -

That is the Question?

page 4 Koi Transportation

page 7 20th SAKA Koi Show

page 8 Hotel's

Page 9 Vendors

Page 9 Raffle Items

Page 9 Show Schedule

Page 10 Equipment Check

Page 10 Fish of the Month

President Corner

It's Show Time!!! Yes that’s right it is time for the 20^th Annual SAKA Koi Show and Auction. This will be our biggest and best. What a way to celebrate all your hard work. All that time you have spent raising those young koi should be rewarded by bringing them to the show. Everyone can finally see what you are so proud of. You never know you might have the next Baby Grand Champion, or even Grand Champion.

Remember your pond water is cooling off now. Watch the temperature and feed your fish according as the water cools the fish eat less food. Fish metabolize their food and the colder the water the matableic system slows down. Over feeding can cause your fish to have internal problems. Please be careful.

Time is rushing by; Thanksgiving will be here soon. A special thanks to all who have helped me understand KOI and the special family I have become part of. You are all very special people. Thanks for being you.

Sanke Santa will soon be here. He will have his bag of goodies from the North Pond. So you need to be good.

Bob Panter

President SAKA

To Show or Not to Show - That is the Question? Or Why Not Show Your Fish?

By Tom Ayers

Should we show our koi? This question perplexes many senior koi keepers as well as those new to our hobby. First, I think we can all agree that a Koi Show with its attendants, dealers, speakers and social events is the highlight of the club's year. For most, it is the "reason why we are a member of the club."

A Successful Show

The first question is how does one evaluate the success of a koi show, whether that person is a koi club member or a member of the public. Is it the number of fish that are entered? The number of guest speakers? The number of people who entered fish in the show? The chance to meet other member of the club? I suggest that the success of a koi show is all of the above. One way that we use to evaluate the success of a show is the number of fish entered. If everybody comes through and we meet our goal of 200+ fish we would be one of the three largest shows in the country, plus one of the largest show that the Southern Arizona Koi Association has put on in the last few years. It also is a great chance to learn what is a good koi according to the standards and what is not. We all have our favorite fish that will probiality never win but is a special fish to us. To give you an idea of what I am talking about, last year in the Valley of the Sun Show, the last fish I bagged up was a six-inch Bekko. I brought it to the show so I could say SAKA would bring 20 fish. The fish did a lot better than I though it would. It took 1^st place in 10 and under Bekko's. But it also took Best of Class. I was proud and surprised. I hate to say this but it was a $3.00 fish. So it takes a little luck.

Rob McLean has a great story. According to my source there was a fish that he bought at the SAKA auction the year before. After some convincing, he took the fish to the Phoenix show. To make a long story short his Kumonryu took Grand Champion of the show. So bring your fish, you might learn some neat things and there might be a Grand Champion in your pond.

Asagi Helpers Program

Many newcomers to our hobby are afraid to move their koi or not sure if they can do it safely by themselves. This is a legitimate concern to someone inexperienced in pond keeping. The Southern Arizona Koi Association has announced a program called Asagi Helpers where members who are uncomfortable in the catching, bagging, boxing or transportating of fish and plan to enter the show, can request an Asagi Helper. The Helpers will either go to their pond, or invite them to their own, and/or will teach them how the above can be safely done. They will also discuss the care of fish brought home from a show.

Koi Care before the Show

Here is a check list of things you should do before the koi show

_____ Send in registration

_____ Pay registration

_____ Pay & make reservation for awards banquet

_____ Select the fish to go to the show

_____ Quit feeding your fish one week before the show

_____ Do you need a Asagi Helper? Yes ___ No ___ if yes call Tom Ayers (744-6996) to set-up a time

_____ Have bags & boxes for the fish

_____ Bring fish to the show

Now you are ready to learn and go to the awards session.

Koi Care at the Show

The next question is "How safe is the water quality at the show site?" We are very fortunate that there are excellent, well-trained people in charge of water quality. These unsung heroes of our show spend countless hours, including night and early mornings, testing and treating the water. They are constantly discussing the properties and efficaciousness of each new suggestion. We have developed also a fish load chart so we can help make sure we do not overload your show tank and help you figure out if you need one, two or maybe three tanks.

Most of the people who have studied Koi shows -- like ours -- find that is rare for a fish that has been properly transported to become ill from going to a show.

Koi Show Disease Transmission

I have heard an excuse for not bringing a fish to the show -- "I'm afraid they may catch something." First of all, the benching committee watches for and eliminates (sends home) all fish that shows signs of an infectious illness. In an English show you are in your own tank, and this year we will be using fish handlers. This is the reason why you need to provide them with a pan and a net for your tank. (Please mark your stuff, it all looks a like after awhile.)

The next response I hear is " Yeah, but they may be carrying something you don't see. I'm glad you said that," I reply, and hand the person Galen Hansen's article in which he compares fish in a pond to a child in a sterile atmosphere. As long as you don't ever introduce a new fish or bring them to a show, they will be fine. But one new fish in your pond and they will be like American Indians or Hawaiian natives suddenly exposed for the first time to our childhood diseases. It's a massacre! And as he says, who among us is never going to buy another new fish?

For those willing to consider it, I will point out that the most famous and expensive koi in the world are brought to shows. Do you think that someone would spend these huge sums of money only to see the fish injured or die?

Showing Your Koi

In fact, the people who most resistat showing fish often say that their fish aren't good enough. That's silly. Of course, shows like to premiere great fish but, as I told you, the first thing is the number of fish at the show. Look at Rob and me we thought we didn't have great fish, but Surprise! Surprise! Surprise!

As a member of the koi keeping community, and to get the most out of your club, I suggest you try entering a fish or two in the show. Or you can do what Tom & Julie McComb did last year, entered their whole pond. You will quickly find that while the prizes and ribbons are nice, it's the participation that will give you the most satisfaction. You will also feel an integral part of the koi society.

Hope you enter your fish and have fun.

KOI TRANSPORTATION

(HOW TO MOVE KOI FROM HERE TO THERE)

By Gene Ewy MD

KOI ISOLATION AND HANDLING

When a koi hobbyist wishes to closely inspect or move koi from a koi pond, the specific koi must be isolated and guided into a suitable container. A good quality koi net with knotless fine mesh and the circular frame totally covered is recommended to minimize the risk of damage to the koi. The bay depth should be shallow. The koi net should be a large as possible (depending on the size of the koi) though larger nets are more difficult to move through the pond water, particularly if the net has a telescopic handle and it is extended.

Take it easy. Don't get the koi or yourself agitated. Don't agitate or stress the remaining koi. Its risky to approach the koi from it's tail since the caudal fin may be damaged as the koi responds vigorously to the net touching its tail. Minimize net contact with the koi. Ideally approach the koi from the front getting the net under its head and gently guiding it into a floating tank or tub.

One advantage of the koi net is that a single person can guide the koi into a floating tank. The rim of a large koi

net (guiding a koi to the floating tank) is used to submerge an end of the floating tank. The koi is then guided into the floating tank. This maneuver is easier if a second person appropriately submerges the tub or floating tank. A single individual can also bring the koi in the net adjacent to a floating tank or tub. The net is controlled with one hand which has been advanced on the pole to a position near the net. The floating tank or tub is submerged with the other band and the koi is gently guided into the container. Don't lift koi from the water with the koi net, particularly.

Koi can be collected from a smaller pond readily in the manner described with a koi net. A telescopic pole will allow the net to isolate koi in a larger pond. If this is not practical consider PTTN - patience, time and two nets. The second koi net handler gently guides the selected koi into the koi net of the primary handler who guides the koi into the tub or floating tank.

If your pond doesn't lend itself to any of the above methods, a seine my be used to partition the pond into areas from which the koi may be collected. The mesh of the seine should be knotless. The seine should be longer than the width of your pond. The width of the wine should be greater than the depth of the pond. The seine should have floats at or top and weights on the bottom. Koi are not lifted with the seine.

KOI HANDLING - SHORT DISTANCE MOVES

The koi that have been isolated and guided into a container are ready to be moved. This can be accomplished in a

number of ways. If the koi is in a tub in the pond with enough water in the tub to cover the koi the tub containing the koi can be Ned from the pond. The tub or any other container in which a koi is being carried should be covered. A mesh cover, a solid cover or plastic begs on the surface of the water can be used. The container with koi can be carried by hand, placed on a cart and wheeled or the container itself may be on wheels. The koi should be transferred promptly to the destination water (isolation tank, show tank, etc.).

Koi sock nets we open ended fine mesh nets attached to a circular covered frame with a relatively short handle. The net is much longer than the diameter of the opening (42 inch sock net with a 10 inch diameter opening as an example). The koi is brought through the opening of the net head first by carefully advancing the net over the head of the koi or by manipulating the head of the koi into the net with your free hand. The koi is positioned in the body of the net, the end of the net is closed by one hand of the holder, the other end of the net is folded over to retain the koi the hands are held tautly apart as the koi is lifted from the water and transferred hopefully for only a-short distance. A head first exit of the koi from the sock net is preferred to avoid unlikely but perhaps possible fin or scale damage. Some mucus may be lost from the skin. This a safe method to move koi short distances.

I prefer to use plastic bags for most short distance moves. Double plastic begs (one bag inside another) should be considered particularly for larger koi for safety. Three mil and four mil begs we quite strong. Bag size depends upon the size of the koi. Fish should be carried horizontally. Small fish may be carried in the small end of the plastic bag with the bag held upright, large koi may need be carried with the bag horizontal and held tautly between both hands. The largest koi may need to be carried by two handlers.

The top edge of the plastic bags should be rolled over. This results in a large relatively fixed orifice which frees

one hand that can be used to direct the koi head first into the bag. Some pond water should be in the bag when the koi is gently introduced. There should be enough water in the bag to cover the gills of the koi as the bag is carried

to its destination. A head first exit from the bag is ideal but I think the smooth plastic surface allows a tail first exit with negligible risk if done carefully. If the opening into the bag is large enough the koi can be lifted out by hand. For a short move without adding transfer water to the destination tank consider transferring in a plastic bag with a comer cut out to drain the water.

I have noted from a UK publication (Koi Health Quarterly) an instance of a tom plastic bag from the dorsal fin of

a koi. From both a UK publication (Koi Kichi) and a Japanese publication (Rinko) recommendations are made to

remove a palpable 'hook' on anal fins of large koi which might tear a plastic bag. If this could happen it would be an added reason to double or triple bag large koi.

Moving koi by hand is best reserved to transfer koi from one container to an immediately adjacent container. Koi

have a slick slime coat, they may be quite active and they can be dropped. Dropping koi is not recommended. The handlers hands should be thoroughly wet. No hand jewelry should be worn. The koi may resist movement in a direction it is not going and become agitated.

If it is difficult to place your bands under a larger koi in the proper position for support of the koi during transfer, consider taking advantage of temporary disorientation produced in the koi when rotated in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction for a few turns. If going clockwise the handler should place his right hand across the

left head and shoulder area and support the under surface of the koi just back of the head with his right hand when

the koi if facing at eleven or twelve o'clock. Continue the clockwise rotation with the right hand, place the left hand under the posterior aspect of the koi when the head is at four to six o'clock. Lift the koi from the water. Bring the head close to your body for control, move your hands with the koi if it moves as you deliberately and promptly

transfer the koi to the immediately adjacent container.

PREPARING KOI FOR TRANSPORTATION

Stress during koi transportation should be minimized as much as possible. Stress may lessen the effectiveness of the koi's immune system. The possibility of infection or other health problems which could be transmitted to other koi in your pond is enhanced .

Koi should not be fed for at least three days and possibly seven days before transport. The production of ammonia during transport is reduced and the transport water is not polluted to the extent that it would be had the koi been fed during this fasting period. Koi may be eating algae from the pond wall during the period when they are not fed.

If an isolation tank with adequate water volume and an active biological filter is available the koi could be in this tank at least during the last part of the fasting period. Additives to the isolation tank water could be salt, mineral salt or various medications. Be accurate. Do not over medicate. There will be less stress when the koi is in a dark environment during transport. Transport water can be cooled to reduce metabolism. Mild sedation could be considered.

LONG DISTANCE TRANSPORT

In general koi may be transported for long distances and many hours safely in plastic bags or in rigid containers,

The development of the plastic bag had an immense impact allowing safe worldwide koi transportation.

TRANSPORTING KOI IN PLASTIC BAGS

It's time to get physical again. We're going to put our koi in plastic bags for transport. There is a wide choice in

bag size and thickness. The bag should be longer than the rectangular corrugated cardboard koi box or any other container into which the bag will be placed. This allows secure closure of the bag using most of the length of the box.

Double plastic bags should be used putting one bag inside the other. Large koi transported long distances by

airplane within the USA or from overseas may be within the inner bag of 3 to 5 bags. It is helpful to roll the

mouth of the bag down before placing koi in the plastic bag. This produces a relatively fixed opening and keeps water from going between the bags. Put some water from the pond or water prepared specifically for the transport into the bag.

The koi is put into the bag by hand transfer or by using your free hand to direct the koi into the bag. Usually only one koi 18 to 20 inches in length is placed in a bag, perhaps two 15 to 18 inch koi are placed in the saw size bag, etc. The gills should be covered with water, I prefer to add enough water so that the koi can float, not rest on the bottom of the box.

Some hobbyists and dealers put additives in the transport water. This includes such things as salt. mineral salt, antiparasitic medication, antibacterial medication, etc. If you choose to do so. do not overdose. Prepare the transport water accurately and add it to the bag. Transfer the fish into the bag by hand, sock net, or bag with a corner cut out to drain the pond water from the bag so that minimal pond water will be added to the transport water. The transport water will not be significantly diluted. The bagged koi is placed in a corrugated rectangular koi box, styrofoam box, polystyrene box. ice chest, etc. The length of the box is usually about two times the width or height. The width and height are normally similar. Newspapers are often placed in the bottom the koi box primarily for insulation. I won't say that Japanese newspapers are best but the koi I have received directly from Japan have been calm and happy.

Look closely at the bagged koi in the transportation box. If water needs to be added or removed, do so. Remove all

air from the bag by carefully compressing the bag down to the water level. Pleat the plastic bag near the mouth of the bag so no air reenters the bag. Insert the hose from the regulator (attached to an oxygen cylinder) through the mouth of the bag. Slowly fill the bag with pure oxygen to about three fourths full and withdraw the hose. Twist the neck of the bag so no oxygen escapes. Fold the neck of the inner bag over and secure it with rubber bands rightly placed over the folded neck. Use two rubber bands for safety. Seal the outer begs in sequence in the same manner. Insulating material (usually newspapers) is placed over the bag in the box and the box is sealed.

If one wishes to gradually lower the water temperature in the bag during transit, place frozen reusable freeze packs on top of the bag before adding newspaper insulation. Support the bottom of the cardboard box when it is being carried.

Place the transport box or other container holding the bagged koi in the transport vehicle sideways to the travel

direction Braking during transit would then move larger koi sideways and would not bang their nose against the end of the box. The risk of injury is reduced. The transport box must be secured so it does not move during transit.

MOVING KOI IN TRANSPORT TANKS

The other method of moving koi long distances is in transport tanks. Many varieties of tanks are used: 1) flexible

liners such as vinyl coated industrial fabric liners in a rigid frame made born PVC, tubular steel or other material,

2) polyurethane tanks, 3) fiberglass tanks. etc. The tank must have a secure cover to retain water and koi. The zippered covers with vinyl tanks allow easy closure and easy access. The size of the tank is determined by the type of vehicle and the amount of weight that can be carried safely in the vehicle. Water weighs ova eight pounds per gallon. There are seven and a half gallons in a cubic square foot of water. My transport tank for a station wagon measures 3 foot by 4 foot and is just over 19 inches high. Usually we carry 10 inches of water which is 75 gallons weighing 625 pounds. Obviously transport tanks in trucks can be much larger, carrying more water and fish. All tanks must be stabilized so they will not shift during transport. The transport tank water should be oxygenated before koi am added and the dissolved oxygen in the water should be maintained at about 9 parts per million or over. Pure oxygen can be diffused into the water easily using an oxygen tank with a regulator through an air stone or a fine-pore diffuser for pure oxygen. The advantage of a fine-pore oxygen diffuser would be a smaller bubble size (approximately 0.5 to 2 nun diameter) which would increase the total surface area per unit of oxygen. Oxygen saturation is maintained with a slow flow rate. This system is used world wide with great success.

Air, which is 21% oxygen, can be introduced into the water through an air stone (approximately I to 3 mm

diameter bubble size). The flow rate would have to be significantly higher than the flow rate of pure oxygen to

maintain the same oxygen level in the water. The source of the air could be from a 12 volt portable piston or diaphragm compressor operating from the car or truck battery during transit. An adapter from the cigarette lighter socket is used. If the tank is to be aerated for some time when the power source is not from the vehicle's 12 volt battery, a 12 volt marine or deep cycle battery (larger capacity) could be used as the power source.

Members of the Louisville koi club have developed and used a nice transport tank system utilizing a 12 volt submersible bilge pump which pumps about 500 gallons of tank water per hour through a spray bar for aeration. They have kindly shared this system with a number of koi hobbyists.

OXYGENATION TRANSPORT TANK VERSUS CLOSED BAG

Multiple methods of aeration or oxygenation provide excellent levels of dissolved oxygen in the transport tank

water. Overall, pure oxygen from an oxygen tank with a regulator for fine control of the flow rate is favored. One

advantage of this system of oxygenation is that the flow is quite gentle and minimal carbon dioxide (from the koi's respiration) is blown off so the pH does not rise. pH is a measure of the hydrogen ion concentration in the water. The higher the hydrogen ion concentration the lower the pH the more acidic the water. A change in pH from 8 to 7 reflects a 10 fold increase in the hydrogen ion concentration A change in pH from 8 to 6 reflects a 100 fold increase in the hydrogen ion concentration.

The pH can increase with vigorous aeration as carbon dioxide is blown off. With the more alkaline water more of the ammonia would exist as unionized ammonia which is toxic.

In a closed bag system with pure oxygen in the beg, dissolved oxygen levels in the transport water remain high. I have measured dissolved oxygen levels in this closed. bag system after fifteen hours in transit. The oxygen saturation was 16 to 18 ppm, much above the 8 ppm needed for good aeration.

ASPECTS OF AMMONIA

Let's consider some aspects of ammonia as it impacts koi. It is a normal product of protein metabolism in koi. It is excreted primarily through the gill - about 75%. It is potentially toxic and may cause death. Unionized ammonia (NH3) at 0. 1 parts per million can be lethal.

Now, here's the good news. Unionized ammonia reacts with water to produce ionized ammonia (ammonium) and

hydroxyl ions.

NH3 + H2O = NH4 + OH ionized ammonia (NH4) is nontoxic.

Ammonia toxicity is strongly dependent upon pH. Decreasing the pH (solution more acidic) has by far the greatest effect on decreasing the proportion of unionized ammonia in solution. The above reaction is driven to the right by decreasing the pH. A greater proportion of the total ammonia exists as ionized ammonia (NH4) which is nontoxic. At 50 degrees Fahrenheit and a pH of 7 only 0.2% (1 part out of 500) of the total ammonia exists as toxic unionized ammonia. Ammonia toxicity is also decreased by lowering the temperature, by increasing the salinity and by increasing dissolved oxygen. The major factor however is the pH of the water.

CLOSED BAG: IMPACT OF AMMONIA

Fortunately, in a closed bag system the carbon dioxide (released from the koi's gill as a product of respiration) dissolves in the water to form carbonic acid which forms bicarbonate and hydrogen ions, increasing the acidity.

C02 + H2O = H2CO3 - HC03 + H

More carbon dioxide yields more hydrogen ions. The bag water progressively becomes more acidic.

In a previous article concerning water chemistries during koi transport (Koi USA, March/April 1977) water

parameters were determined when the koi were removed from their bags after being in die closed bags 13 hours. A single 20 inch koi was in each of two bags. Each bag contained 3.5 to 4 gallons of water. The pH of the bag water when the koi were placed in the bags was 7.4. The bags were filled with 100% oxygen and sealed. At the end of the 13 hour journey in our koimobile the pH of the bag water was 6.4 and 6.5. The carbon dioxide level was greater than 45 mg./liter in each bag and the total ammonia was 4-5 ppm and 4 ppm

Water pH and total ammonia levels were measured more recently when I received koi from Japan. The koi were in the closed bags just over 24 hours. The koi were slightly larger and each bag contained 4.5 to 5 gallons of water. The pH was 6.5 and 6.4, total ammonia was 6 to 7 ppm in each bag. In a closed bag inflated with oxygen the carbon dioxide released by the koi will progressively increase the acidity of the water to a level at which the ammonia will exist in its nontoxic form ionized ammonia. It is not harmful to the koi.

The maximum level of total ammonia acceptable with a pH of 6.5 and a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit is

approximately 14 ppm (extrapolated from Diagnostic Ammonia Chart in Summer 94 Koi Health Quarterly by

John Redgrove). At 50 degrees F with a pH of 6.5, a maximum of 34 ppm total ammonia could be tolerated by the koi. The total it nia in the transport water in the previous illustrations is well below the levels tolerated because of the acidification of the bag water by the retained carbon dioxide.

TRANSPORT TANK: IMPACT OF

AMMONIA

The pH of the water in a transport tank should remain stable. If anything, over aeration may reduce the carbon

dioxide level in the water. This would slightly increase the PH of the water which would slightly increase the

proportion of total ammonia existing as toxic non-ionized ammonia. At a temperature of 69 degrees F and a pH of 7.5 only 2 ppm total ammonia would be tolerated by the koi. Ammonia production by the koi will continue during transit. Dependent upon transit time, ammonia production and water volume, a potential toxic ammonia problem must be addressed.

One option could be water changes. This could be difficult out in the wilderness with no idea about the make-up of the local water (chlorine, chloramine, heavy metals, etc.).

I prefer to use pond water to prepare the transport water prior to transport so it corresponds to the pond water the

koi are accustomed to. Our tap water has low alkalinity and hardness plus chlorine and chloramines Sodium bicarbonate is added to bring the alkalinity level up and increase the buffering capacity. Calcium chloride may be added to increase hardness. NovAqua is added to dechlorinate the water. AmQuel is added to neutralize chloramine plus the anticipated ammonia production during transit. This is estimated from fish load and anticipated transit time.

TRANSPORT TANK WITH BIOLOGIC FILTER

A small active biologic filter associated with a transport tank is an interesting possibility. Certainly the potential ammonia problem could be eliminated. Since the transport systems discussed previously work well, I'll wait to see how this evolves.

BEST CHOICE

The transport tank systems and the closed plastic bag system work well for long distance transport of koi.

How far? How many? How often? The koi hobbyist should use the system that is easiest for him or her.

Understand that system.

20^th Southern Arizona Koi Association Koi Show

Some of the fun facts about the SAKA show. Here is a list of some of the people that have made the Southern Arizona Koi Association Koi Show over the last 20 years. I know I have probably missed some people, I hope not too many. But thanks for the history.

Judges

Some of the people that we have been honored to have as our judges have been:

Bob Finnegan Charlie Seu

Doug Rowsell Dr. Art Lembke

Dr. Galen Hansen Dr. Grant Patton

George Takeda Jack Stone

Joan Finnegan Kathy Ferriss

Larry Christensen Lester Berkow

Mark Whalen Pat Christensen

Rick Pompillio T. Tokutake san

Tim Kimura Tsuyoshi Kimura

Vergil Hettick George Takeda

Rene Cordova Charlie Attwell

Locations

We have had many different locations.

DoubleTree Hotel

Elcon Mall

Kino Sport Complex

Park Mall

Reid Park Recreation Center

Tanque Verde Swap Meet

Tucson Convention Center

Show Chairs

Our first Show Chairperson was Ron Kenndey

Some of the other people that have chaired this great event are:

Rose Kenndey Budd Cohen

Doug Wahl Ed Kachnic

Evertt Kult Jack Stone

Jessica Tibbitts Joe Ziegler

Larry Smith Louie Jayme

Mark Michael

Grand Champions

1993 Champion

1996 Champion

1997 Champion

1998 Champion

Meet This Years Judges

Doug Dahl

Head Judge

This is Doug's third show as a head judge. He was certified as an AKCA judge in 1997. He participated in the international Judging seminar at the ZNA All Japan Show in 1993. He has been activily involved in the hobby since 1985. His koi involvement includes koi breeding on eight occasions resulting in many first place and best in class award winning fish. He has entered his fish in over 25 shows in the southern California area over the last eleven years. The highest award achieved was maile champion of the SoCal 25^th Anniversary Large Fish Koi Show.

Steve Drake

Assistant Judge

He is in his 12th year of koi keeping and has been an active member of the Koi Club of San Diego for 9 years and has served as president or as a steering committee member of the club for 7 years. Steve has also been the assistant chairman and show chairman and is capable of handling any element of a koi show. This will be his 11^th judging experience. He does however show his fish in about 3 shows each year and is a very serious koi enthusiast. He has had different articles published by Koi USA. He was very fortunate to have been taught and helped by 2 great people for whom he has high admiration. They are Galen Hansen, and Tom Graham. He is also lucky as part of his occupation, to have traveled to many countries and made koi friends around the world. For instance he has been to Japan 5 times and is very interested in the people behind the creation of this hobby.

Larry Gill

Assistant Judge

Larry Gill began as a pondkeeper in 1972 with a backyard pond containing goldfish followed by koi. Larry gives credit to Grant Fujiota for educating him on koi keeping. He was the first candidate judge from northern California in the AKCA judge certification program. Larry became a certified AKCA judge in 1999.

Lecture Series @ The Show

10:00 am - noon Water Conservation and Your Pond ( Blended Water in Your Backyard)

There is a lot of controversy over the use of water in the desert. Here we hope to educate pond owners and water gardeners to the proper use and reuse of the water. With the addition of Chloramines, comes a danger to aquatic life. Learn how to use "Blended Water" safely. People will be here to answer questions on your possible water problems.

9:00a.m. How to Judge Koi - Steve Drake & Larry Gill

Both Steve & Larry will be Judges for our Koi Show on Saturday. They will discuss " What they look for in a Champion Koi"

10:00 a.m. Spawning Your Fish - Doug Dahl

Doug is a well known AKCA and ZNA Judge. A major part of his koi keeping hobby is the spawning of koi.

11:00a.m. Water Gardening - Helen Nash

Helen Nash is a well know water gardener. She publishes a magazine called "Pond & Garden" and has lectured across the United States on plants and keeping a water feature in your backyard.

Hotel's

We have two great hotels for people to stay at this year. The Red Roof Inn and the Holiday Inn. To get the group rate at either hotel, please tell them that you are with SAKA. Check-in is after 3:00pm for both hotels.

Red Roof Inns

3700 East Irvington Road

Tucson, AZ 85714

520-571-1400

or 1-800-THE-ROOF

You need to make your reservation by 11/10/99

The room rate is 39.76 per night and that includes tax. The reservation is BZ25SAKA

Holiday Inn Palo Verde

4550 South Palo Verde Blvd.

Tucson AZ 85714

520-741-1170

Rooms are $69 and Suites are $79 plus tax.

AQUA Ultraviolet

43271 Avenida Alverado

Temecula, CA 19508

1-800-454-2725

Maureen Williams

AKCA Book Store

P.O. Box 115

La Habra, CA 90633-0115

1-800-646-1685

Carl & Judy Caddies

W. Lim Company &

Lim's Quality Koi

933 Mabel Ave

South El Monte, CA 91733

626-448-7032

William Lim

Mountain View Koi

3828 Keeling Road

Hereford, AZ

520-378-3710

Kurt & Lisa Ogren

Ponds, Plants, & More

2060 West Ruthrauff Road

Tucson, AZ 85705

520-292-6774

Quality Koi Company, Inc

322 North Broad Street

Philadelphia, PA 19102-1015

(215) 988-9723

Joe Suritsky

Rancho Del Koi

3400 S Saguaro Shadows Drive

Tucson, AZ 85730-5629

520-886-8797

Tom & Sherry Morin

Some of the Raffle Items

23 inch TV

Suburban Water Gardens

Ultra Violet Light

Sequence Pump

$100 Gift Certificate

Ecological Laboratories Inc

Microbe-Lift

Entertainment Book 2000

Ron's Pond

Sequence 750

1/8 horse

2 Certificates from Eclectic Café

Sabino & Tanque Verde

(Each certificate is for 2 dinners excluding drinks, dessert & gratuity)

Janzen Wahl Group

1 Speciality Gift Basket

Rancho Del Koi

Stepping Stone

Have you your raffle tickets yet?

Kawarigoi Kornor

Special Events Coming UP

November 11^th, 1999

Loading up the trailers

6:00pm Doug Wahl's house

20^th Southern Arizona Koi Association Koi Show

November 12 -14, 1999

KINO VETERAN’S MEMORIAL CENTER

November 12, 1999

8:00am Start setting up for the show

2:00 ish - 7:00 p.m. Start registration of fish.

8:00 p.m. Meet the Judges, Out of Town Members & Guests. Molina Midway, 1138 North Belvedere Should be a lot of fun.

November 13, 1999

8:00 - 12:00 noon Fish Registration

10:00 - 12:00 noon

Water Conservation & Your Pond (Blended Water in Your Backyard)

12:00 - 5:00 Judging of the Fish

7:00 Awards Dinner

November 14, 1999

9:00 a.m. How to Judge Koi - Steve Drake & Larry Gill

10:00 a.m. Spawning Your Fish - Doug Dahl

11:00 a.m. Water Gardening - Helen Nash

12:00 noon Koi Auction

2:00 p.m. Super Raffle

2:00 p.m. Fish Removal

Equipment Check

Food Glorious Food

What is this??

Should we keep this sign?

Great Halloween Custom!

What are we doing here anyway?

Where's the hole?

What is this box for?

Is it alive?

Roll'em, roll'em, roll'em

How do we go about finding those holes?

The Brain Trust?

Fish of the Month

From Pan Intercorp Internet site

SHUSUI

Created by crossing a Doitsugoi with an Asagi, the Shusui was one of the first Doitsu varieties of Nishikigoi. Shusui have a bold line of navy scale on the back with a bright orange or red belly like the Asagi. Shusui that have red color up to the dorsal line are called Hi Shusui.

10 % Discount

With your membership card

Mountain View Koi

3828 Keeling Road, Hereford

378-3710

Ponds, Plants & More

2060 West Ruthrauff

292-6774

Rancho del Koi

3400 S. Sagauro Shadows Drive

886-8797

Tucson Feed & Pet Supply

8524 East Broadway

722-7399